The new Riders Dungarees made out of Sugar Cane's raw 14oz. 50/50 (50% cotton, 50% sugar cane that is!) left hand twill, SC301 "Okinawa" denim, with the pockets and side cinch in a 11oz. version of the same denim.
This denim has become somewhat synonymous with MFSC jeans as, with the exception of the 7163, all other jeans as well as a lot of the tops are done in this denim, however this is the first pair done completely in just this denim.
Pockets have been moved all the way to the side for more comfort in the saddle, and the ankle pockets first seen on the N-1K Deck pants make another appearance in case one prefers to keep the backpockets completely empty during those long rides (be it by bike, car or desk chair...) or just to be able to take that little extra with you when needed. They've so far come in very handy for me as I have been carrying my gloves in them when not on my hands during these cold winter days.
Sizing, soaking and shrinkage:
By now I trust that I can simply go for a 32 in MFSC jeans and get a fit that will work for me. The only issue with these was the length, as they are a fixed 34 inch pre shrinkage, with little option to let out the hem. With my long legs this means I could hardly afford any shrinkage in the length, but I still wanted the top block fitted. I briefly considered not soaking them at all, but in the end decided against it. Solved it by going for a short lukewarm soak in the tub and taking the bottom of the legs out the water half way through, after that yanking on the legs as hard as possible the moment I took the jeans out of the water.
This does mean that I have to be careful with washing these in the future, they will most likely only receive handwashes.
Line dried and then worn damp to shape.
The colour difference between the two different weights of denim becomes hardly noticeable after soaking
Christophe himself describes these as a mid-rise, late 50's silhouette.
On me they fit straight and slim with a little anti-fit in the seat. I actually like the length and think it works really well worn with boots.
I do think that it would be smart to have a "long configuration" for future jeans with a fixed length and no material to let out, simply for the long legged folks out there who aren't as comfortable with short jeans as I am...
Card stock pocket flasher stapled to the right backpocket.
Sideview with the slashpockets and side cinch straps. The 11oz. covert cloth lined "Never Rippum" pockets worked directly into the lap felled outseams at the hip and ankle
A close-up of the steel "Buzz" domed rivets and what seems to be an inevitable side effect from sewing makes for an interesting stitch detail at the bottom of the pockets
"Bar tacked at points of stress" and a hint of red showing in the watch pocket
a close up of the denim, lots of character and still quite hairy before being soaked
An almost obscene look into the watchpocket, more on the plaid fabric below
Almost a MF signature by now, horizontal stitching along the waistband. The whole jean is stitched with a 100% cotton dark navy thread, hardly visible for now, but it will pop out once the indigo starts to fall. Also the new rayon label positioned on the extra wide center back beltloop
The incredibly clean inside, either selvedge or hand felled seams. In fact you wont find one overlock stitch throughout the whole jeans. The bottom of the pocketbags, made of the same covert cloth as seen on the Mechanic shirt, is even cut along the fabric's selvedge, this to prevent the need for overlocking or the very neat looking, but thicker French/English seam solution
The fabric used for the watchpocket is a deadstock cotton HBT plaid Mister Freedom found a small amount of, the majority of this fabric was used to line the sleeves of this seasons Mullholland Master, with a small batch reserved for the Dungarees watchpocket, notice how the left side of the watchpocket uses the fabric's selvedge
Some more close-ups of the inside. The buttons are all black painted, steel donut buttons which will age nicely over time. The waist has a "Laurel" button while the fly gets the smaller, plain style donuts
An alternate way to feed the strap through the cinch shows the covert cloth lining quite well and it also makes for a nice accent of a different kind of blue
Finally, an Union ticket stitched inside the seam of the right backpocket, I had no clue it was there until it appeared from behind the pocket flasher. The pockets are all fully lined so you don't notice that the pockets themselves are actually made out of a lighter weight denim than the rest of the jeans